Shoe Construction Methods - Goodyear Welt


I thought for the second Blog entry i’d give you a little detail about the different construction method we choose to use.

So what makes a good pair of shoes or boots? For the majority of us it comes down to brand, style and cost. Not much information is given about the construction and materials which is a real shame.

Most high street brands are mass produced and cannot be constructed using traditional hand welted techniques. Most of the products are constructed using a method called “concreting” which is essentially glueing the outsole to the insole. This technique tends to fall apart and cannot be resoled.

Because our products are made to order using traditional techniques we are able to offer a much more superior construction method, it may take longer but the final result is a product “built to last a lifetime” and can be resoled if needs be.

We use Goodyear welting.

This technique is the oldest most labor intensive method of shoe construction. This technique is generally done in three steps.

Firstly the shoemaker needs to prepare the insole for stitching. This involves creating a “rib” by cutting or sculpting the insole.

The second step involves stretching the outsole over the last and attaching it along with the insole, to the last.

The third and final step is the welting, thread is sewn through the welt, the upper and the insole. A lockstitch is used which means even if the chain is broken at any particular point it will not unravel!

This method allows you to easily resole due to the welt acting as a buffer between the insole and the outsole. The lock stitch also adds to the durability and the extra layers make the shoe more water resistant and supportive.

Unfortunately for the consumer the cost of the products are generally more because of the added labor and materials.

My next blog ill speak more about the leather we use.

Thanks again for your interest in our products

Glenn :)